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Time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry (ToF-SIMS) analysis of the bleaching of keratin fibres and the application of cationic alkyl protein softeners to bleached cashmere

2000; Wiley; Volume: 29; Issue: 7 Linguagem: Inglês

10.1002/1096-9918(200007)29

1096-9918

S. Volooj, Chris Carr, R. Mitchell, J. C. Vickerman,

Skin Protection and Aging

Surface and Interface AnalysisVolume 29, Issue 7 p. 422-430 Research Article Time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry (ToF-SIMS) analysis of the bleaching of keratin fibres and the application of cationic alkyl protein softeners to bleached cashmere S. Volooj, S. Volooj Department of Textiles, UMIST, PO Box 88, Manchester M60 1QD, UKSearch for more papers by this authorC. M. Carr, Corresponding Author C. M. Carr Department of Textiles, UMIST, PO Box 88, Manchester M60 1QD, UKDepartment of Textiles, UMIST, PO Box 88, Manchester M60 1QD, UK.Search for more papers by this authorR. Mitchell, R. Mitchell CSMA Ltd., Armstrong House, Oxford Rd., Manchester, M1 7ED, UKSearch for more papers by this authorJ. C. Vickerman, J. C. Vickerman Department of Chemistry, PO Box 88, Manchester M60 1QD, UKSearch for more papers by this author S. Volooj, S. Volooj Department of Textiles, UMIST, PO Box 88, Manchester M60 1QD, UKSearch for more papers by this authorC. M. Carr, Corresponding Author C. M. Carr Department of Textiles, UMIST, PO Box 88, Manchester M60 1QD, UKDepartment of Textiles, UMIST, PO Box 88, Manchester M60 1QD, UK.Search for more papers by this authorR. Mitchell, R. Mitchell CSMA Ltd., Armstrong House, Oxford Rd., Manchester, M1 7ED, UKSearch for more papers by this authorJ. C. Vickerman, J. C. Vickerman Department of Chemistry, PO Box 88, Manchester M60 1QD, UKSearch for more papers by this author First published: 26 June 2000 https://doi.org/10.1002/1096-9918(200007)29:7 3.0.CO;2-2Citations: 16AboutPDF ToolsRequest permissionExport citationAdd to favoritesTrack citation ShareShare Give accessShare full text accessShare full-text accessPlease review our Terms and Conditions of Use and check box below to share full-text version of article.I have read and accept the Wiley Online Library Terms and Conditions of UseShareable LinkUse the link below to share a full-text version of this article with your friends and colleagues. Learn more.Copy URL Share a linkShare onEmailFacebookTwitterLinkedInRedditWechat Abstract Studies using ToF-SIMS have demonstrated that the 18-methyleicosanoic acid (18-MEA) bound to the fibre, via a thioester linkage, is the major lipid present at keratin fibre surfaces. Relatively higher levels of eicosanoic acid were detected by ToF-SIMS than has been observed by wet chemical analysis. Hydrogen peroxide bleaching of keratin fibres cleaves the 18-MEA, the level of loss being related to the severity of oxidative attack. The adsorption of a wetting agent, nonyl phenol ethoxylate (NPE-8), onto the fibre occurs during bleaching with preferential adsorption of the more hydrophobic short ethoxymer species observed. Characterization of protein softeners indicated complex ToF-SIMS spectra, with the surface analysis data agreeing with the wet chemical bulk analysis. Surface analysis of the 'softened' cashmere indicated that the cationic alkyl protein softeners are highly substantive and that enrichment of the more hydrophobic softener components has occurred. A distribution model for the cationic protein softener over the anionic fibre surface has been proposed. Copyright © 2000 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. REFERENCES 1Maclaren JA, Milligan B. Wool Science, The Chemical Reactivity of the Wool Fibre. Science Press: Marrickville, Australia, 1981. 2Phan KH, Thomas H, Heine E. Proc. Int. Wool. Res. Conf. Biella, Vol. II, p. 19, 1995. 3Negri AP, Cornell HJ, Rivett DE. Text. Res. J. 1993; 63: 109. 4Peet DJ, Wettenhall REM, Rivett DE. Text. Res. J. 1995; 65: 58. 5Laxer G, Whewell CS. Proc. Int. Wool Text. Res. Conf. Australia, Vol. F, p. 186, 1955. 6Wolfram LJ, Hall K, Hui I. J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 1970; 21: 875. 7Bereck A, Schwartz S, Zahn H. Text. Prax. Int. 1982; 37: 621. 8Bereck A. Rev. Prog. Colour. 1994; 24: 17. 9Vickerman JC, Swift AJ. 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