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On the generation of long waves

1971; American Geophysical Union; Volume: 76; Issue: 36 Linguagem: Inglês

10.1029/jc076i036p08672

2156-2202

Ole Secher Madsen,

Nonlinear Waves and Solitons

Journal of Geophysical Research (1896-1977)Volume 76, Issue 36 p. 8672-8683 On the generation of long waves Ole Secher Madsen, Ole Secher MadsenSearch for more papers by this author Ole Secher Madsen, Ole Secher MadsenSearch for more papers by this author First published: 20 December 1971 https://doi.org/10.1029/JC076i036p08672Citations: 124AboutPDF ToolsRequest permissionExport citationAdd to favoritesTrack citation ShareShare Give accessShare full text accessShare full-text accessPlease review our Terms and Conditions of Use and check box below to share full-text version of article.I have read and accept the Wiley Online Library Terms and Conditions of UseShareable LinkUse the link below to share a full-text version of this article with your friends and colleagues. Learn more.Copy URL Abstract For relatively long waves generated by a piston-type wave maker, the classical linear wave-maker theory is extended to second order accuracy. Within the limits of validity of the theory, this agrees well with experimental results for the motion generated by a sinusoidally moving wave maker, and shows that secondary waves are associated with the existence of a second harmonic free wave. By giving the wave maker a motion that consists of a first and a second harmonic, it is shown that this free second harmonic wave may be eliminated, so that the generated wave is virtually of permanent form. Citing Literature Volume76, Issue36Oceans and Atmospheres20 December 1971Pages 8672-8683 RelatedInformation