On the modelling of wave breaking and set-up on coral reefs
2000; Elsevier BV; Volume: 39; Issue: 1 Linguagem: Inglês
10.1016/s0378-3839(99)00052-6
ISSN1872-7379
AutoresStanisław R. Massel, M. R. Gourlay,
Tópico(s)Tropical and Extratropical Cyclones Research
ResumoAn extended refraction–diffraction equation [Massel, S.R., 1993. Extended refraction–diffraction equation for surface waves. Coastal Eng. 19, 97–126] has been applied to predict wave transformation and breaking as well as wave-induced set-up on two-dimensional reef profiles of various shapes. A free empirical coefficient α in a formula for the average rate of energy dissipation 〈ϵb〉=(αρgω/8π)(gh/C)(H3/h) in the modified periodic bore model was found to be a function of the dimensionless parameter Fc0=(g1.25H00.5T2.5)/hr1.75, proposed by Gourlay [Gourlay, M.R., 1994. Wave transformation on a coral reef. Coastal Eng. 23, 17–42]. The applicability of the developed model has been demonstrated for reefs of various shapes subjected to various incident wave conditions. Assuming proposed relationships of the coefficient α and Fc0, the model provides results on wave height attenuation and set-up elevation which compare well with experimental data.
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