Artigo Revisado por pares

The Absent City: Istanbul and American Writing

2010; Oxford University Press; Volume: 23; Issue: 1 Linguagem: Inglês

10.1093/alh/ajq073

ISSN

1468-4365

Autores

Julie Orr,

Tópico(s)

Islamic Studies and History

Resumo

One of the most common scams (and one of the most interesting uses of technology) in Istanbul is the Shoe Shine Drop. A shoeshiner walks just ahead of a tourist with his shoeshine box strapped to his shoulder, pulls a little hidden lever, and releases the catch that holds his brush to the box, dropping it at your feet. You pick it up, he offers you a free shoeshine, you graciously accept this token of gratitude for your act of largesse, and then he shouts bloody murder all the way down the street if you don't give him twice the regular price. Never mind whether your shoes needed shining. I once had someone try this on me while I was wearing flip-flops. I mention this because, for a North American in Istanbul, the straight that separates what you're doing from what you think you're doing can often be as wide, as difficult to navigate, and as fascinatingly beautiful as the Bosphorus—that narrow stretch of water which, as every tour guide will tell you, both divides and connects Europe and Asia, the East and the West. Sometimes generosity and open-mindedness can be very close to condescension and cultural blindness. Sometimes when you think you've made a deal, or a friend, you might also be getting taken to the cleaners.

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