THE BREAKING OF WAVES IN SHALLOW WATER
1949; Wiley; Volume: 51; Issue: 3 Linguagem: Inglês
10.1111/j.1749-6632.1949.tb27280.x
ISSN1749-6632
Autores Tópico(s)Oceanographic and Atmospheric Processes
ResumoAnnals of the New York Academy of SciencesVolume 51, Issue 3 p. 360-375 Full Access THE BREAKING OF WAVES IN SHALLOW WATER JAMES J. STOKER JR., JAMES J. STOKER JR. Institute for Mathematics, and Mechanics, New York University, New York, N. Y.Search for more papers by this author JAMES J. STOKER JR., JAMES J. STOKER JR. Institute for Mathematics, and Mechanics, New York University, New York, N. Y.Search for more papers by this author First published: May 1949 https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1749-6632.1949.tb27280.xCitations: 3AboutPDF ToolsRequest permissionExport citationAdd to favoritesTrack citation ShareShare Give accessShare full text accessShare full-text accessPlease review our Terms and Conditions of Use and check box below to share full-text version of article.I have read and accept the Wiley Online Library Terms and Conditions of UseShareable LinkUse the link below to share a full-text version of this article with your friends and colleagues. Learn more.Copy URL Share a linkShare onEmailFacebookTwitterLinkedInRedditWechat References Boussinesq, J. 1877. Essai sur la théorie des eaux courantes. Mémoires par divers savants 23: 24. Google Scholar Bruman, J. R. 1947. Application of the water channel-compressible gas analogy. A report to the U. S. Navy Department by North American Aviation, Inc. Google Scholar Cornish, V. 1910. Waves of the Sea, and Other Water Waves. London . Google Scholar Cornish, V. 1934. Ocean Waves and Kindred Physical Phenomena. Cambridge . Google Scholar Cowrant, R., & K. O. Friedrichs. 1944. Supersonic flow and shock waves. Report prepared for the Applied Mathematics Panel of the National Defense Research Committee. This report, in revised and extended form, is to be issued as a book. Google Scholar Einstein, H. A., & E. G. Batrd. 1946. Progress report of the analogy between surface shock waves on liquids and shocks in compressible gases. Report prepared for the Bureau of Ordnance of the U. S. Navy Department by the Hydrodynamics Laboratory, California Institute of Technology. Google Scholar Favre, H. 1933. Contribution à l'étude des courants liquides. Publication du laboratoire de recherches hydrauliques annexéà l'école polytechnique féderal de Zurich. Web of Science®Google Scholar Von Kármán, T. 1938. Eine praktische anwendung der analogie zwischen überschallströmung in gasen und überkritischer strömung in offenen gerinnen. Zentralblatt für angewandte Mathematik & Mechanik 18 (1). Google Scholar Keulegan, G. H., & G. W. Patterson. 1940. Mathematical theory of irrotational translation waves. J. Res. Nat. Bureau Stand. U. S. Department of Commerce: 47. Google Scholar Lagrange, I. L. 1781. Mémoire sur la théorie des mouvements des fluides. Oeuvres IV . Google Scholar Lamb, W. 1945. Hydrodynamics. American Edition. Google Scholar Preiswerk, E. 1938. Anwendung gasdynamischer Methoden auf Wasserströrmmgen mit freier Oberfläche. Mitteilungen aus dem Institut für Aerodynamik, Technische Hochschule , Zürich . Google Scholar Riabouchinsky, D. 1932. Sur l'analogie hydraulique des mouvements d'un fluide compressible. C. R. Acad. Sci. Paris. 195: 998. Web of Science®Google Scholar Stoker, J. J. 1948. Formation of breakers and bores. Communications on Applied Mathematics I (1): 1–87. 10.1002/cpa.3160010101 Web of Science®Google Scholar Sverdrup, H., & W. Munk. 1944. Breakers and surf. Hydrographic Office, U. S. Navy Department. Google Scholar Sverdrup, H., & W. Munk. 1947. Wind, sea, and swell: Theory of relations for forecasting. H. O. Navy Department. 10.5962/bhl.title.38751 Google Scholar Thorade, H. F. 1931. Probleme der Wasserwellen. Probleme der kosmischen Physik, Bd. 13–14. Google Scholar Citing Literature Volume51, Issue3Ocean Surface WavesMay 1949Pages 360-375 ReferencesRelatedInformation
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