A laboratory study of nonlinear surface waves on water
1996; Royal Society; Volume: 354; Issue: 1707 Linguagem: Inglês
10.1098/rsta.1996.0022
ISSN1471-2962
AutoresTom E. Baldock, Chris Swan, Paul H. Taylor,
Tópico(s)Oceanographic and Atmospheric Processes
ResumoRestricted accessMoreSectionsView PDF ToolsAdd to favoritesDownload CitationsTrack Citations ShareShare onFacebookTwitterLinked InRedditEmail Cite this article Baldock T. E. , Swan C. and Taylor P. H. 1996A laboratory study of nonlinear surface waves on waterPhil. Trans. R. Soc. A.354649–676http://doi.org/10.1098/rsta.1996.0022SectionRestricted accessArticleA laboratory study of nonlinear surface waves on water T. E. Baldock Google Scholar Find this author on PubMed Search for more papers by this author , C. Swan Google Scholar Find this author on PubMed Search for more papers by this author and P. H. Taylor Google Scholar Find this author on PubMed Search for more papers by this author T. E. Baldock Google Scholar Find this author on PubMed , C. Swan Google Scholar Find this author on PubMed and P. H. Taylor Google Scholar Find this author on PubMed Published:15 March 1996https://doi.org/10.1098/rsta.1996.0022AbstractThis paper describes an experimental investigation in which a large number of water waves were focused at one point in space and time to produce a large transient wave group. Measurements of the water surface elevation and the underlying kinematics are compared with both a linear wave theory and a second-order solution based on the sum of the wave-wave interactions identified by Longuet-Higgins & Stewart (1960). The data shows that the focusing of wave components produces a highly nonlinear wave group in which the nonlinearity increases with the wave amplitude and reduces with increasing bandwidth. When compared with the first- and second-order solutions, the wave-wave interactions produce a steeper wave envelope in which the central wave crest is higher and narrower, while the adjacent wave troughs are broader and less deep. The water particle kinematics are also strongly nonlinear. The accumulated experimental data suggest that the formation of a focused wave group involves a significant transfer of energy into both the higher and lower harmonics. This is consistent with an increase in the local energy density, and the development of large velocity gradients near the water surface. Furthermore, the nonlinear wave-wave interactions are shown to be fully reversible. However, when compared to a linear solution there is a permanent change in the relative phase of the free waves. This explains the downstream shifting of the focus point (Longuet-Higgins 1974), and appears to be similar to the phase changes which result from the nonlinear interaction of solitons travelling at different velocities (Yuen & Lake 1982).FootnotesThis text was harvested from a scanned image of the original document using optical character recognition (OCR) software. As such, it may contain errors. 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