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Lidar Observations of the Swash Zone of a Low-Tide Terraced Tropical Beach under Variable Wave Conditions: The Nha Trang (Vietnam) COASTVAR Experiment

2020; Multidisciplinary Digital Publishing Institute; Volume: 8; Issue: 5 Linguagem: Inglês

10.3390/jmse8050302

2077-1312

Luís Pedro Almeida, Rafaël Almar, Chris Blenkinsopp, Nadia Sénéchal, Erwin W. J. Bergsma, France Floc’h, Charles Caulet, Mélanie Biausque, Patrick Marchesiello, Philippe Grandjean, Jérôme Ammann, Rachid Benshila, Duong Hai Thuan, Paula Gomes da Silva, Nguyen Trung Viet,

Coastal wetland ecosystem dynamics

A field experiment was conducted at a tropical microtidal intermediate sandy beach with a low tide terrace (Nha Trang, Vietnam) to investigate the short-term swash-zone hydrodynamics and morphodynamics under variable wave conditions. Continuous 2D Lidar scanner observations of wave height at the lower foreshore, subsequent run-up and swash-induced topographic changes were obtained. These data were complemented by detailed real-time kinematic GPS topographic surveys. Variable wave and tide conditions were experienced during the field experiment with relatively large swell waves (offshore significant wave height, Hs = 0.9 m to 1.3 m; peak wave period, Tp = 8 to 12 s) concomitant with spring tides at the beginning of the period, followed by mild wind waves (offshore Hs under 0.5 m and Tp 5 s) and neap tides. This resulted in the following morphological sequence: berm erosion followed by rapid neap berm reformation and beach recovery within a few days. New insights into the link between intra-tidal swash dynamics and daily beach profile evolution were found using the Lidar dataset. While waves directly cause morphology changes on a wave-by-wave basis, tidal levels were found to be a key factor in determining the morphological wave-effect (accretive or erosive) due to modulated interaction between surf and swash hydro-morphodynamics.