Artigo Revisado por pares

Black Henna: Hazardous Allergies and Invisible Bodies

2022; Taylor & Francis; Volume: 14; Issue: 3 Linguagem: Inglês

10.1080/19428200.2022.2186093

ISSN

1949-2901

Autores

Wei Ye,

Tópico(s)

Exercise and Physiological Responses

Resumo

Click to increase image sizeClick to decrease image size Additional informationNotes on contributorsWei YeWei Ye is a doctoral candidate in anthropology at the University of Minnesota, Twin Cities. Her dissertation researches the global making of a traditional Chinese medicine, ejiao (donkey-hide gelatin), by tracing the Africa–China donkey hide commodity chain. She is also the cofounder of the Chinese anthropological platform TyingKnots (结绳志).Notes1 Ruchi Badoni Semwal, Deepak Kumar Semwal, Sandra Combrinck, Catherine Cartwright-Jones, and Alvaro Viljoen, “Lawsonia inermis L. (Henna): Ethnobotanical, Phytochemical and Pharmacological Aspects,” Journal of Ethnopharmacology 155, no. 1 (2014): 80–103.2 August Wilhelm Von Hofmann, “I. Notes of Researches on the Poly-Ammonias,” Proceedings of the Royal Society of London 12 (1863): 1–13.3 Charles Zviak and Jean Milléquant, “Oxidation Coloring,” in The Science of Hair Care (Boca Raton: CRC Press, 2005).4 The European Union Cosmetic Directive Regulation has permitted PPD inclusion in hair dye with a maximum concentration of 2 percent. See Al-Enezi, Majda H., and Fahad S. Aldawsari. “Study of P-Phenylenediamine (PPD) Concentrations after Hair Dye Mixing: A Call for Safety Reassessment.” Cosmetics 9, no. 2 (2022): 41.5 In recent years, black henna has been found to contain a high concentration of PPD in various regions with henna traditions. For example, in Dera Ghazi Khan, Pakistan, a high concentration of PPD (11.2–26.9 percent) was found in commercially available mehndi products. See Khattak, Muhammad Asghar, Faiza Nadeem, Dureshehwar Dureshehwar, Abrar Hussain Khosa, Rizwan Zafar Ansari, and Anwar ul Haq. “The Quantitative Analysis of Para Phenylene Diamine Compound in Henna (Mehndi) by Using High Performance Liquid Chromatography.” Advances in Basic Medical Sciences 3, no. 1 (2019). In the United Arab Emirates, recent research showed that PPD was present in all of the black henna samples at concentrations ranging between 0.4 percent and 29.5 percent. See Al-Suwaidi, Ayesha, and Hafiz Ahmed. “Determination of Para-Phenylenediamine (PPD) in Henna in the United Arab Emirates.” International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health 7, no. 4 (2010): 1681–1693. In Dhaka, Bangladesh, the presence of PPD in black henna products ranges between 11.66 and 20.48 percent. See Mahmud, Saleh Mahmud, Sultan Abu, Tasnuva Ferdous, Md Morshedul Alam, Md Shohag Hossain, Habibul Bari Shozib, Farzana Khalil, Faija Akter, and Mohammad Nazir Hossain. “Para-Phenylenediamine (PPD) in Commercially Available Henna Preparations in Bangladesh.” Bioresearch Communications 8.1(2021):1088–92.6 Rebecca Guenard, “Hair Dye: A History,” The Atlantic, January 2, 2015.7 Catherine Cartwright-Jones, “Compound Henna,” https://www.tapdancinglizard.com/compound-henna/.8 Jessica Evans Jain, “Mehandi in the Marketplace: Tradition, Training, and Innovation in the Henna Artistry of Contemporary Jaipur, India,” Museum Anthropology Review 14, no. 1–2 (2020): 18–107.9 Catherine Cartwright-Jones, The Geographies of the Black Henna Meme Organism and the Epidemic of Para-Phenylenediamine Sensitization: A Qualitative History (Ph.D. dissertation, Kent State University, 2015), 17.10 Cartwright-Jones, The Geographies of the Black Henna, 9.11 Peacock hair dye was mistakenly identified as a Japanese brand in the article. See Young, Kelly. “Henna in Islamic Society: A Study in Lamu.” Kenya Past and Present 24, no. 1 (1992): 17–18.12 Salah Hassan, “Henna Mania: Body Painting as a Fashion Statement, from Tradition to Madonna,” in The Art of African Fashion edited by Prince Claus Fund, Els van der Plas, and Marlous Willensen. (Trenton, NJ: African World Press, 1998), 103–129.13 Patricia Kelly Spurles, Henna for Brides and Gazelles: Ritual, Women’s Work and Tourism in Morocco (Ph.D. dissertation, Faculté des Arts et des Sciences, 2004), Universite de Montreal (Canada) 253–260.14 Cartwright-Jones, The Geographies of the Black Henna, 152–155.15 Cartwright-Jones, The Geographies of the Black Henna, 32–37.16 Although allergic contact dermatitis caused by black henna is well-recognized in the fields of dermatology and immunology, the cases may not be as straightforward for the general clinicians who are often the first to see and treat these patients. See Ip, Natasha, and Jane Hoddes. “Henna Tattoo: Infection or Allergy?” The Lancet 383, no. 9926 (2014): 1436.17 Jane Salodof Macneil, “Henna Tattoo Ingredient Is Allergen of the Year,” Skin & Allergy News 37, no. 3 (2006): 36.18 Sharon E. Jacob and Bruce A. Brod, “Paraphenylenediamine in Black Henna Tattoos,” The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology 4, no. 12 (December 2011): 46–47; “Commission Directive 2009/134/EC of 28 October 2009,” Official Journal of the European Union 282, no. (2009).19 “Temporary Tattoos, Henna/Mehndi, and ‘Black Henna’: Fact Sheet,” U.S. Food and Drug Administration, March 3 2022. https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-products/temporary-tattoos-hennamehndi-and-black-henna-fact-sheet.20 Cartwright-Jones, The Geographies of the Black Henna, 121 Examples of reported medical cases include a five-year-old Portuguese child who was taken to the emergency department in SaÏdia, Monaco, because of black henna; three Chinese children who developed contact dermatitis due to henna tattoos while traveling to Thailand; and an eight-year-old Italian child who developed skin lesions after a black henna tattoo obtained while traveling in Egypt. See Cunha, Francisca, Iolanda Alen Coutinho, Carmelita Ribeiro, and Ana Todo Bom. “Contact Dermatitis from Black Henna Tattoo in Child Due to Paraphenylenediamine.” Allergologia et Immunopathologia 50, no. 6 (2022): 68–70; Peng, Fen, Juan Du, Chen-Hong Xue, Shuo-Shuo Liu, Wen-Hai Li, Zhou Chen, and Jian-Zhong Zhang. “Henna Tattoo: Temporary or Permanent?” Chinese Medical Journal 130, no. 22 (November 20, 2017): 2769; Panfili, Elisa, Susanna Esposito, and Giuseppe Di Cara. “Temporary Black Henna Tattoos and Sensitization to Para-Phenylenediamine (PPD): Two Paediatric Case Reports and a Review of the Literature.” International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health 14, no. 4 (April 2017): 421.22 Jane Friedmann, “‘Black Henna’ Tattoos Can Be Nightmare,” Star Tribune, January 26, 2013.23 Maya Rao, “Minnesota Muslims Prepare for Eid al-Fitr Holiday,” Star Tribune, June 3, 2019.

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